How to find your perfect foundation match
Finding the right foundation shade isn't about luck – it's about understanding your skin. I've spent more than 20 years testing foundations as a Beauty Editor, here is the ultimate guide for finding your perfect match.
Words by Carin Hellman
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If there's one beauty product that still manages to stump me, it's foundation. Ironically, finding the perfect match has become both easier and harder. Easier because brands now offer beautifully inclusive shade ranges with 25, 40 or even 60 shades. Harder because more choice also means more room for second-guessing. I've lost count of how many foundations I've tested over the years, and yet I still occasionally bring home the wrong shade. But the good news? Once you understand your skin's undertone and know what to look for, finding your perfect match becomes much less overwhelming. Here's the simple guide, tips that I collected from makeup artists and experts during the years – and the guide I wish someone had given me years ago:
What is an undertone?
Your undertone is the subtle colour beneath the surface of your skin. Unlike your skin tone, which may become lighter in winter and deeper in summer – your undertone generally stays the same throughout your life.
Most people fall into one of three categories:
Cool undertones
Your skin has hints of pink, red or blue.
Warm undertones
Your skin leans towards golden, peachy or yellow.
Neutral undertones
A balanced mix of warm and cool, making it easier to wear a wider range of shades.
How to find your undertone
There are a few easy ways to narrow it down so you don't get lost in the djungel of shades and tones:
Look at your veins
Turn your wrist over and look at the veins in natural daylight.
Blue or purple veins often indicate cool undertones.
Green-looking veins usually suggest warm undertones. If it's difficult to tell, you're likely neutral.
Think about your jewellery
This isn't a scientific test, but it can be surprisingly helpful.
Silver tends to flatter cool undertones.
Gold usually complements warm undertones. If both suit you equally well, you may have a neutral undertone.
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How does your skin tan?
While this won't tell the whole story , it offers another clue.
If you burn easily before tanning, you may lean cool.
If you tan quickly and rarely burn, you're often warm. If you're somewhere in between, neutral is a good possibility.
Don't match to your hand
One of the biggest foundation mistakes is testing the shade on the back of your hand. Your hands are almost always a different colour from your face. Instead, apply two or three shades along your jawline. The right shade should disappear seamlessly into both your face and neck.And always check the colour in natural daylight before making a decision.
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Should you wear different shades in summer and winter?
In most cases, yes. Just remember that your undertone doesn't change with the seasons, but your skin tone often does. During winter, many people naturally become one or two shades lighter. In summer, even if you're diligent with SPF, your complexion often becomes slightly warmer or deeper. If foundation is part of your everyday routine, it's worth owning two shades and mixing them as your skin changes throughout the year. It gives you a much more natural finish than trying to make one shade work all year round.
Don't get too hung up on the shade number
Shade names and numbers vary enormously from one brand to another. A "2N" in one foundation may look completely different from a "2N" in another. Instead of focusing on the name, pay attention to the undertone and how the formula disappears into your skin.
Do the the final test
The best foundation is the one that melts and becomes one with your skin. If you can clearly see where it starts and stops, it's probably not the right shade. When the colour melts into your skin, looks invisible in daylight and makes people compliment your skin rather than your makeup, you've found your perfect match. After all, foundation isn't supposed to change your complexion. It's simply there to let your skin look like the very best version of itself.
